A Guide To Key 2013/14 Check Patterns

Introduction

A quick glance at the pages of any menswear magazine or city street will immediately reveal there’s more than a hint of punchy pattern about this season – bold checks and plaids are back with a bang, and are a dominant feature of AW13′s design motifs.
From traditional tartan prints to elegant Prince of Wales checks, embracing patterned fabrics is the way to show your sartorial mettle during the winter season.
In this piece, we take a look at the plaids and checks you should be investing in for AW13 and beyond…

Blackwatch

Blackwatch check is everywhere this season. Embraced by the highest echelons of Milanese design through to high street stalwarts, this dignified, masculine plaid is defined by its muted blue, green and black tones, and appears on everything from tailored jackets to trousers and knitwear.
The three-tone pattern’s origins stem from traditional Scottish clan tartans, earning its name from the black lines that separate the blue and green threads. A subdued and refined check, this plaid is perfect for guys who like to take a more subtle approach to pattern.
The menswear design team at Valentino took a real shine to blackwatch this season, using the motif for tailoring and its cult sport luxe trainers, whilst high street bastions Topman and Zara also adopted the weave for knitwear and jackets.

Lookbook Inspiration

Key Pieces

• Topman Black Tartan Contrast Short Sleeve Denim Shirt
• Topman Green And Navy Checked Skinny Suit Jacket
• Jigsaw Tartan Wool Blazer
• Zara Sweater With Checked Pattern At The Front
• Topman Green/navy Tartan Check Cropped Skinny Chinos
• River Island Dark Green Tartan Brushed Scarf
• John Lewis Black Watch Tartan Bow Tie Green/navy
• Underground Tartan Creepers
• Valentino Wool And Cashmere-blend Sweater

Windowpane Check

Windowpane check, so called for the pattern’s resemblance to its namesake object, is typified by large, square blocks drawn with fine, chalk-like lines.
The pattern is popular in tailoring, particularly in Italian cloths, and is a great way to inject a pattern into a conservative working wardrobe, owing to its subtle refinement and altogether more formal air.
Windowpane check is timeless and has a regular presence in tailored collections each season, so opting for a quality suit in the pattern is a worthy investment. Try Peter Werth, ASOS, J.Crew and Jaeger for some great windowpane check pieces.

Lookbook Inspiration

Key Pieces

• Lightweight Shirt In Citrus Windowpane Check
• Topman Peter Werth Hemsworth Window Pane Check Shirt
• Asos Slim Fit Suit Jacket In Window Pane Check
• Jaeger Overcheck Jacket
• Reiss Derby Double Breasted Window Pane Blazer Grey
• Charcoal Lilac Windowpane Saxony Slim Fit Suit Jacket
• Asos Slim Fit Suit Jacket In Window Pane Check
• Thom Browne Window Pane Check Shirt
• Reiss Calvert Three Piece Suit With Peak Lapel Grey

Prince Of Wales Check

Officially known as Glen Plaid, this fine check, used for day suits, was originally employed by the Countess of Seafield to clothe her Highland gamekeepers.
Whilst heir to the British throne in the 1920s and 1930s, the pattern was popularised by the Duke of Windsor, for which it earned its popular moniker, ‘Prince of Wales Check’.
The weave has enjoyed a warm revival in recent seasons, with the motif appearing on jackets, trousers, outerwear and accessories in all manner of updated forms. Usually composed of low-key tones, the pattern consists of alternating dark and light stripes arranged to create a fine, irregular criss-cross design.
A great option for both formal and casual occasions, this check has a masterful ability to adapt to most sartorial situations. Try pairing a single-breasted Prince of Wales check jacket with a dark-wash pair of jeans and leather brogues for a look that will transition from day to night with ease.

Lookbook Inspiration

Key Pieces

• Richard James Slim-fit Prince Of Wales Check Cotton Shirt
• Asos Skinny Fit Suit Jacket In Prince Of Wales Check
• He By Mango Prince Of Wales Suit Waistcoat
• Reiss Puglia Double Breasted Check Blazer Soft Grey
• He By Mango Prince Of Wales Suit Trousers
• Ami Slim-fit Prince Of Wales Check Wool Coat
• He By Mango Premium Prince Of Wales Blazer
• Tommy Hilfiger Prince Of Wales Wool Scarf
• Michael Bastian Prince Of Wales Check Wool Tie

Lumberjack Checks

The US has given us some enduring elements of menswear style, and the Americana-inspired check is one of its greatest legacies. From check cotton shirting to heavy plaid outerwear, our cousins across the pond have done a great deal to popularise checks as one of the cornerstones of masculine dressing.
A key motif across many AW13 collections is red and black plaid, the signature pattern of Pennsylvania heritage label Woolrich. This instantly recognisable weave has its origins in Scottish tartan and consists of densely woven dark red and black threads. From hunting jackets to bombers, the red and black check is one of the key plaid patterns this season.
Wool and cotton shirts in a wide variety of check patterns also remain a core theme, with nearly all menswear brands taking inspiration from iconic stateside styles.
Whether opting to wrap up with a plaid hunting jacket, or layering a check shirt beneath a chunky knit, lumberjack checks are a great way to pep-up a winter wardrobe with a colourful punch.

Lookbook Inspiration

Key Pieces

• Asos Wool Check Jacket
• Asos Backpack In Buffalo Check
• River Island Red Check Flannel Shirt
• Ami Shearling-trimmed Check Wool Bomber Jacket
• Topman Buffalo Check Scarf
• Dickies Sacramento Shirt In Check Flannel
• Uniqlo Men Flannel Checked Long Sleeve Shirt I
• Gant Nolita Check Long Sleeve Shirt
• He By Mango Check Wool-blend Peacoat

Houndstooth

This iconic 1960s pattern has stamped its mark on AW13, with many designers showing oversized, contemporary takes on the retro motif. Although originally popularised in the ‘Swinging Sixties’, the origins of houndstooth go back to the Scottish lowlands of the early nineteenth century.
Identifiable by its ‘broken check’ weave, which is said to resemble the cross-section of a dog’s tooth, the pattern was widely used in tailoring and outerwear in past decades.
This season sees designers give a fresh, modern slant to this timeless check, showing it in overblown forms and colourful hues. Houndstooth was a key motif for labels such as Paul Smith and Topman Design for AW13, with both brands using the pattern to spectacular effect on bold knits and statement outerwear.

Lookbook Inspiration

Key Pieces

• Asos Stripe T-shirt With Houndstooth Pattern
• Paul Smith Mainline Pink Houndstooth Knit Jumper
• Paul Smith Houndstooth Coat
• Topman Houndstooth Jumper
• Reiss Sonoma Houndstooth Check Blazer Navy
• Topman Harris Tweed Navy Houndstooth Waistcoat
• Paul Smith Mens Silk Houndstooth Print Pocket Square
• Asos Socks With Houndstooth Design
• River Island Black And White Dogtooth Tie

Final Word

Adding a patterned punch to your look with a statement check or plaid couldn’t be easier this season. The choice is endless – from tailoring to knitwear, trousers and accessories, there’s something to suit every man’s sartorial proclivities.
But this look is not merely about a trend: checks and plaids are timeless and enduring. Most patterns we see today have existed for hundreds of years virtually unchanged, which is something of a reassurance that the cashmere-blend Prince of Wales suit you’ve just shelled out for will have wardrobe longevity.
Along with paying tribute to tradition, checks and plaids are also an easy way to liven up the gent’s winter wardrobe, which is too often dominated by muted hues and solid tones.
Unlike many trends that tend to be spurred on by the women’s side of the industry, checks are a firmly masculine affair and will continue to look great on guys for years to come – long live the steadfast check.